Thursday, 30 April 2015

Doctor's Orders

When Rod told Dr Owen we were going to visit The Isle of Skye he said "You must go see the Old Man of Storr". So that is exactly what we did. We found the start of the walk to see the Old Man, not due to signage (we are learning daily that signage is lacking in Scotland) but because of the many cars parked on the side of the road.
We estimate that it took us 90 minutes to walk and then climb the path to the top of the Storr Mountain ( we did not think to time the up journey so we timed the down and expect it took twice as long). Again there were absolutely no signs at the beginning or anywhere along the way that indicated distance, degree of difficulty or the time it might take.
We do know that we climbed 300m which took us to 474m above sea level. It was quite strenuous trekking, the first stages were on steep dolomite rubble paths passing through several gates. After the last gate it was climbing over rocks, avoiding muddy puddles from the melting snow and giving way to people making their way back down.

All the while being rewarded and encouraged by the most amazing scenery imaginable. Most of the time the wind was strong and cold, beanies and coats, gloves and scaves were the go. Occassionally when we were sheltered behind large rocks the sun very quickly warmed us through.
Oh, it turns out that everyone has been looking for Nessy in the wrong place, he has been sighted on the Isle of Skye.
The journey back down was certainly quicker but care was needed not to loose footing on the loose rubble surface or pick up too much speed.
Back in the car and the next stop,which was signed this time, was Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. The vertical lines in the rocks being the pleats in the kilt.
Realising that we were not going to achieve touring as much of the Island as we had originally imagined we decided to take a direct route East to west, eliminating miles of coast that would continue to beckon us to stop and take pictures. What we didn't realise in this change of route was that we would be travelling on a one lane, steep and winding road up and around the Trotternish Mountains and down the othe side. 
We don't know what we missed on the coat but we couldn't imagine it could possibly be more breath-takingly beautiful as what we experienced driving through the grand green Glens. 
The one lane road then joined the main road into Uig but still required the upmost care and driving skill as the last bend of the road doubled right back around on itself in an extremely acute angle and steepness. The Uig/ Lochmaddy Ferry had just arrived into port.
Back to Portree and a little shopping before Indian dining. Superb Chicken Tikka Massala.

Tomorrow as long as our legs can carry us down the steps in the guest house after today's exertion,  we travel to Fort William. (We are not overly concerned as Allen from the B&B is also the Ambulance driver and the ambulance is often parked outside the guest house.)























Wednesday, 29 April 2015

Over the Sea to Skye


Before leaving Inverness this morning we made a quick visit to the islands of Ness which can be reached by suspension bridges. This was definitely worth a visit and we wish we had more time to walk the entire length of the islands and also to see it at night as there were lights strung up above the walking paths. Next time.

We walked past a number of unique and creative benches.
Another ornate bridge linked the islands.
Moving on we made many stops at 'P's along the entire length of Loch Ness. The P - pullover/parking stops varied in size, number of potholes, visibility through trees, bin or no bin and popularity, however there were many of them so we were able to pick and choose. 
A stop at Fort Augustus gave us great viewing of the operation of the locks.
Climbing up the steps alongside the 5 locks and back down the other side was a good stretch of the legs before setting off in the car again.
Our travels then took us up higher to where snow covered the mountains like a heavy-handed dusting of icing sugar. 
It was pure enjoyment travelling the winding roads with our scenery including numerous lochs and mountains, snow, blue sky, deer, clouds of every shape - some fluffy-white others grey and threatening.
Next stop Eilean Donan Castle.

Such an amazing setting, built upon rocks surrounded by water, we crossed over the stone walled causeway to reach it. The structure dates back to the times of Vikings and has lots of recorded history from the Jacobian years but the current furnishings and restorations capture the modifications that were made to accomodate the MacRae-Gilstrap family in 1932. 
Unfortunately no pictures were allowed inside. The detail and extent of the displays were extremely well done, they included life size models of the kitchen staff to the gentry and all the paraphernalia to go in the appropriate rooms. They even created the smell of Apple crumble being made in the kitchen and had the noise of mice scampering around inside the larder.
Back on the road and it was over the curved bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh onto the Isle of Skye.
We are staying the next two nights at this B&B in Potree - Duirinish Guest House.
A stroll down to the pier after dinning  at 'Well Plaid' for dinner.
















Tuesday, 28 April 2015

Moray Speyside to Cullen and Back


Today we went East to the area of Moray Speyside. Our first stop was Fort George which is an historic garrison which in part is still being used today as a working army barracks. In fact there were areas we could not enter whilst Red flags were hoisted and we could hear firing in the distance. 
The area of massive stone walling (1.6km) and buildings was impressive and it is incomprehensible to imagine the logistics of the building project back in 1746.


Next stop - Nairn, a Victorian seaside resort with grand villas and a picturesque harbour.


The town of Elgin provided us with two historic sites to explore. The first one Elgin Cathedral which dates back to the 1200's. Mostly a ruin there were some buildings that were intact and another which was currently undergoing restoration work.

Adjacent To the Cathedral was a Biblical Garden which was open to anyone wanting to wander through. Again spring had arrived.


The second Elgin historical site was Spynie Palace. This is where the Bishops from the Cathedral resided over a period of nearly 500 years. 
We were able to climb David's Tower for breathtaking views over Moray. Whilst right at the top, exposed to the elements, a light fall of snow added to the effect. 
We virtually had this raw site to ourselves which was quite a contrast to our time at Edinburgh Castle. It gave us the opportunity to really absorb what we were seeing without commercialism taking over.
Our next ports of call (literally) were Portgorden
Buckie
Findochty, Portnockie and then lastly Cullen with it's very impressive Viaduct.

Some of our travelling took us through Pine forests and wooded areas thick with Birch trees.
Our last stop before arriving back in Inverness was to see the Sueno Stone at Forres. Said to be the most remarkable sculptured monument in Britain it is about 6 meters high and dates back to the end of the first millennium A.D. One side is a shaped cross hewn from the stone slab and adorned with intricate knot work. The other side is the scene of a battle. A glass box has been built around the precious antiquity to protect and preserve it.


Tomorrow we are off to the Isle of Skye.














Monday, 27 April 2015

Snow Way!

Leaving Picturesque Perth we made our way to Inverness, first stop Pitlochry.

A pleasant and tidy town we chanced upon the historic little village of Port Na Craig with a suspension bridge.
It seemed to be a popular place for fly fishing and Love Locks attached to the bridge's lattice sides.

Back on the road again we started to see snow on the mountains in the distance. Born and bred in the snow deprived Adelaide Hills we were both a bit excited to see the White.
A stop off at Aviemore (Strathspey Steam Railway) to check out the station and see if we could get a glimpse at a steam train even though the season for rides was not up and running, but unfortunately there was naught to be seen. Nice station though.
What we did find though was an Aussie Cafe. They really had not unlocked the Australian Theme nearly enough with only one or two Australian wines on their Wine List and there was a footnote  to enquire about Aussie Ales.

Back on the road and we got closer to the snow. It looked most impressive on the pine trees. Inverness and surrounds had falls overnight which seems to be unusual for this time of the year if we have interperated the locals comments accurately. 
Having arrived at our B&B - Dunhallin House where we will spend two nights, it was off to explore the town. The River Ness divides the town and again there are beautiful, historic buildings in every direction.
Inverness Castle is a great view and great views can be had from the surrounding grounds.

Note the change in the sky throughout all the pictures. They are all in order and are all taken on the one day. The one above and the one below were taken minutes apart.

Dinner at the Corriegarth Hotel for traditional pub fare and our own tradition of a draught Cider - Strongbow again tonight.

Catch you tomorrow. Cheers!











Sunday, 26 April 2015

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

We have managed to get behind with the daily posts so in this post I will endeavour to bring us back into line. 
Yesterday after attending the Anzac Service at the Castle we caught the tram to the Airport to collect our hire car for the next 20 days. 

We are feeling quite pleased as they offered us an upgrade for a small additional daily cost. The upgrade is a brand new car, diesel with auto start/ stop fuel efficiency and is the  same as the previous car we had in Ireland which was an Opel but this one is branded Vauxhall. The upside is that Rod is familiar with the car and it has a Sat Nav which we have decided is worth so much more than what we have paid in eliminating stress. It also has leather seats, rain sensitive wipers and auto headlights. What a bonus.
On returning back to our accomodation to change out of wet socks from the morning we decided that a visit to the botanic gardens would be possible after all, as the weather had cleared and the sun was out.
Starting out in the visitor centre we were interested to see the tree of donations. Leaves are available to purchase representing a donation to the gardens. Starting with a copper leaf  at £1000 silver and then gold increased in value respectively.

The Queen' s Mother Memorial Garden was well thought out and executed. A little pavilion in the centre of the garden had internal walls completely covered in shells collected by school children and the ceiling was covered in pinecones collected from all the countries that the Queen's Mother had visited.

Spring has certainly sprung in Scotland and the garden was a beautiful place for a stroll and a coffee later on in the afternoon. The sky remained clear and the sun stayed out.

The gardens were beautifully manicured and a pleasure to walk through. 


We finished off the day at The Bell Inn for our dinner. We were able to drive so the choice of venues increase considerably. It was another nice meal, we both had a Beef & Ale Pie with a glass of Cider. The bar was busy with all the regulars come to drink and watch the football on one of the many (at least 6) screens.

Today setting off from Edinburgh our first stop was to see the Kelpies at the Helix near Falkirk. This was something I stumbled on in the very early days of our trip planning and decided would be a must. 
The walk through the Helix to the Kelpies was a pleasure in itself. The rain stopped and the sun came out as we zigged and zagged our way on the boardwalk through the wetlands which was once wastelands.


These metal sculptures of 2 Horse Heads stand 30meters high and are made of metal plates bolted together. What I didn't know is that it is possible to tour inside them, but we didn't. 
Instead it was onto the Falkirk Wheel which is another attraction that we had planned a year ago.
The Wheel is an engineering feat, designed and built to replace several locks on the Canal. A boat or boats enter a gondola from the upper canal, whilst another boat /boats enter  a gondola from the lower canal. The water level is carefully maintained to ensure they are equal in weight. The wheel is then set in motion and the gondolas quietly change places, lowering and being raised respectively. When the top and bottom are reached the gondolas are opened and the boats move on in the newly reached canal.
Again the sun and sky were kind to us, and even though there was a real chill factor and a small fall of hail and mushy snow on our walk from the car park to the visitor centre, we managed to be in the right place at the right time as far as rain was concerned.

Our new destination for the night is Perth. A walk into town to get  dinner gave us a good opportunity for sightseeing. A very old and impressive bridge spans the river Tay. 
Also there are many attractive historical buildings that run parallel to the river.
Streets are generously wide in Perth. 
There is detail and ornamentation to be found wherever you look.

Tomorrow we head to Inverness.